Ladies with pearls - Ferenciek tere (square)

Ferenciek tere, a beautiful square right in the heart of Budapest.

If this place had to be person, it would certainly be a noble lady. The elegant shapes, frolic curves and  ornaments of the lofty buildings hide even more surprise inside than the fancy decoration on the facades. Modern integrates perfectly into the old style as the light, steel arcs of the snow-white suspension bridge extend over the Danube.      

Let me introduce you to the twin ladies posing on the two sides of the road, Klotild and Matild. Klotild to the south and Matild to the north are perfectly symmetric images of each other. Their names are half real and half part of urban imagination. The land where the two buildings stand now was bought by Archduchess and Princess Clotilde (precisely Marie Adelheid Amalie Clotilde of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha). She imagined a magnificent gateway to the Elisabeth Bridge; the two buildings, as graceful ladies, welcome people crossing by. The glass paintings are the masterpieces of the Róth Miksa atelier, the one that prepared the glass windows of the House of Parliament, of the Gresham Palace or the National Bank. The towers are topped by the Archduke's crown. 

However, it is still a mystery why the northern building is called Matild. Apparently, it is just a result of urban prattle. The Habsburg family had three members named Matild, but none of them could have been related. The first one lived in the XIIIth century, the second one lived in the mid-XVIIIth and had an unfortunate death at the early age of 18. She wanted to puff a quick cigarette before a theatre show, when her father - who had strictly prohibited smoking - entered the room. Hiding the ciggie behind her, her tulle dress caught fire. She died a few days later because of the serious burns. Pretty awkward.  
Anyway, Matild is now being turned into a hotel, opening in April. The investors restore the facade as well as the stairway, the roof and the tower.

Although the rejuvenation of Klotild is not on the schedule, it is still worth a mass. Lido casino on the first floor plus restaurant on the gallery, offers an easy night out. The art nouveau interior, tainted glasses, luscious motifs and the enchanting view provide an exquisite setting.



The aforementioned modern minimalist Elisabeth Bridge, inaugurated in 1964, evokes the figure of the original, richly ornamented suspension bridge from 1903. The original one was an incredible achievement of architects and industry, being at the time the only bridge spanning the river without a pillar in the watercourse. The bridge was named after Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi), spouse of Franz Joseph I; the beloved Empress of the Magyars (Hungarians) had been murdered by an anarchist in 1898. As the next bridge to the south bore the name of the Emperor, for a few years the couple were lying next to each other over the Danube.  Like the other bridges of Budapest, it fell prey to the withdrawing Nazi troops - all of them were exploded.

Now, turn off the track and Parisi Court hides real secrets behind the wrought iron gates. This eclectic  treasure-box offers real delight to the eyes, to the taste. Jégbüfé on the front is Persters favourite 'drop-in-for-a-some-cakey-cake' store. And to please to the good taste, you dive into the aesthetic, poetry and couture, at the JE SUIS BELLE showroom on the fourth floor.


Finally, let's not forget the immortal women of the place right in front of the Franciscan church. It is uncertain if the statues portray Nereids or the Danaids, but this story to be told another time...


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Written by Orsi Ujj