Sunday, 28 November 2010

Minorities of Budapest


If sometimes you're  feeling a bit confused about the incredible number of ethnic groups and nations in Eastern-Central Europe, don't worry! It really is very complicated and has always been. In addition, it's always an incredibly delicate question....
The good old Austro-Hungarian Empire used to be the melting pot of minorities. Although most of the time (not always), the Hungarian represented the majority, a considerable number of different ethnicities lived more or less peacefully together: Germans, Romanians, Jews, Serbs, Gypsies, Croats, Székely (the inhabitants of Transylvania) and so on and so forth.




 What did Hungary learn form the breakup of the Empire and from World War II?
That the country's success depends largely on how it treats its minorities.  Even though nowadays only less than 10 % of the country's population declares themselves to be belonging to an ethnic group, they can benefit from a very large scale of minority rights and possibilities (like municipalities and right to education on their maternal language). It may be surprising but Hungary acknowledges 12 national and 1 ethnic minority including Gypsies, but not Jews (they did not want to ).

The VIIIth district of Budapest,  is well-known for its ethnical diversity. There was even a animation movie made entitled "8th district".
Roms* are most specific but Romanians, Bulgarians, Greeks, Armenians, Ukrainians, Ruthenians, Slovaks (etc.) are also inhabitants.
Plus, an increased number of Chinese people found shelter and business opportunities in this area. Some say that Népszínház utca is already a 'China Street'. Ok, there are a bit more Chinese restaurants than elsewhere, but it's highly exaggerated. However you can find yourself in a situation where you are the only non-chinese on the tram for  few stops..

Despite preconception, the VIIIth district is safe and cozy (safe thanks to cameras, cozy thanks to the ambiance and the inhabitants).
Tavaszmező utca is a main spot for Roms, the so-called Gypsy Parliament along with Tavaszmező-Művészkert (Rom art centre) reside under no. 6, therefore visitors are welcomed for exhibitions on Rom art. Unfortunately cultural events are rather rare., but the  artists who work here will be eager to show you around.  In the building, unexpectedly, a beautiful fresco/mural decorates the ceiling of the staircase.

Just on the corner of Tavaszmező street, check out the huge crucifix made of tin – flowers are always fresh at its plinth.

If you take a long walk in this district, don't hesitate to glimpse in or sneak inside buildings in the neighborhood, you're sure to see unexpected or astonishing things. Conviviality and hospitality are  undeniable features of  VIIIth district's local people. Once, I glanced in to the courtyard of a house in Práter utca and saw an incredibly colorful, richly decorated terrace and garden hidden behind the crumbling forefront.
If you really want to experience diversity and not aghast of flavoring your tour with just a little bit of underworld á la Eastern Europe, then visit Négy Tigris Piac (Four Dragon Market, a.k.a. Ferencváros Market)! It really is the top....or low? But for sure the biggest market in Central Europe.
You might have guessed that it's not the standard, clean, fair and legal commerce that is happening here, but you can get anything you want. I say anything. Be careful though. :)


*In everyday language 'Rom' and 'Gypsy' refer to the same people.



Ujj Orsolya, guiding the tour of the ethnic groups

Cartoon on 8th district

 Roma Parlament and Art centre
http://tavaszmezo-muveszkert.bogracs.net/

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The biggest market in Central Europe

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